I Keep Bumping into this Guy


Isamu Noguchi’s Bolt of Lightning – A Memorial to Benjamin Franklin in Philadelphia.

When I started working at Independence National Historical Park in Philadelphia in 1983, I was standing on the front steps of Independence Hall when I noticed a large sculpture depicting a silver lightning bolt connected to a kite and a key. I learned that it was a sculpture by the Japanese-American artist, Isamu Noguchi, entitled Bolt of Lightning…A Memorial to Benjamin Franklin.

The art tugged at my imagination, and as the months passed, so did my interest in the artist. His name resonated with me, particularly after I started dating John Isami Osaki. Thus began my decades long interest in the art of Isamu Noguchi.

After this initial spark of interest, I kept encountering Noguchi’s art. In Honolulu with John in 1984 I viewed Noguchi’s Sky Gate. Noguchi described the sculpture as an “evocation to the skies of Hawaii.” It is 24 feet tall and consists of a wavy ring supported on three legs. You can stand beneath it and gaze up at the sky through the ring. The sculpture was made of industrial sewage pipe four feet in diameter that was shaped and painted. It was, as the artist noted, “a calculation in economy.”

Later in 1984 while visiting my sister in Seattle, I saw Noguchi’s Black Sun at the Seattle Art Museum. This piece is Noguchi’s first large stone carving—9 feet in diameter, and carved in Japan of Black Brazilian granite in 1969. I thought, “I keep bumping into this guy.” First in Philadelphia, then in Honolulu, and now in Seattle. “Who is he?” I wondered. “What inspires his art? What is his story?” Two decades passed. Then in 2014 I was in New York preparing for an art tour I had designed which included a visit to Noguchi’s home and museum on Long Island. At last the time had come to learn more about Isamu Noguchi.

Noguchi was born in San Francisco in 1904. His father was Japanese poet Yonejiro Noguchi and his mother American writer Leonie Gilmour. His parents met when Yonejiro hired Leonie to edit his poems for publication, a romance developed, and after his father left the United States his mother discovered that she was pregnant. Noguchi was raised by his mother, and as a child he lived in both the United States and Japan. However, he never felt rooted to one place and as an adult he never spent an entire year in the same location. He was always moving from place to place. Noguchi tapped the energy generated by this rootless existence and by his family ties to both the U.S and to Japan and he channeled it into his art.

The commission Noguchi received in 1956 to create a garden for the UNESCO headquarters in Paris illustrates his drive to channel his rootlessness into his art. Noguchi wrote, “I was commissioned to do gardens for the UNESCO headquarters in Paris on the recommendation of Marcel Breuer, who, I believe, suggested me because of my Japanese name… This ultimately led to a long and close association with my father’s country and to my development as an artist. UNESCO was my beginning lesson in the use of stone.”

The initial commission was to decorate a plaza already paved with marble on the southwest side of the building. Noguchi was hired to “do something interesting with the space as a sculptor.” His initial thought was to install a dry rock garden, but after visiting the site in Paris he realized that there was no surrounding greenery to set off the beauty of the stone. He convinced the art commission to expand the project into an adjacent sunken area, and when they objected to the additional cost, Noguchi raised the extra funds from Japan with the assistance of his Japanese friends.

With the funds in hand and permission to use stone from Japan, Noguchi set off for his father’s homeland. As an American sculptor, he wanted to make a statement about the relationship between sculpture and space. As the son of a Japanese poet, he wanted to tap the centuries old tradition of working with stone and creating a Japanese garden. To guide him on this dual journey, Noguchi was introduced to Mirei Shigemori, a renowned Japanese garden designer with a passion for the avant-garde. Shigemori incorporated non-traditional materials in his garden designs using, for example, colored concrete to delineate different areas of raked stone in a garden at Tofukuji, a 13th century Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto. (Shigemori had selected his first name “Mirei” (pronounced “me-LAY” in Japanese) as a tribute to the 19th century French painter, Jean Francois Millet.)

Together Noguchi and Shigemori selected stone for the Paris garden from Japan’s island of Shikoku. While still in Japan, Noguchi took the lead in arranging the pieces in the order in which he wanted them to be placed in the final garden in Paris. But Shigemori struggled to adapt to the vision of his American colleague. He wrote: “’Worked from the morning all day to lay out the garden, and got about half done. Very tired. Since I respect Noguchi-san’s feeling above everything else, I cannot arrange the stones the way I think they should be, and that is very hard for me.”

After over three years of effort, the UNESCO garden in Paris opened at the end of May 1959. The reviews were mixed. An American sculptor had explored the depths of Japanese traditional gardens to create something new in Paris—not entirely Japanese and not entirely western either. The Japanese Embassy staff and Japanese artists living in Paris were confused; to them it did not look Japanese. For Noguchi, the project greatly contributed to his quest to create in a grand scale, transporting art from existing as objects created by one person from one cultural tradition in one country, to entire spaces filled with objects that can serve as “man-made spatial oases for the twentieth century” all over the world. Consider joining me in Paris in April 2021 to experience Noguchi’s UNESCO garden in person.

Art of Textiles

As many of you may know, I did my master’s thesis on white on white embrodiery. Working with white cotton thread, on white cotton fabric, using paper patterns, in the early 1800’s in Delaware, Eleuthera du Pont and her sisters created hundreds of dresses, collars, and cuffs. My research was published in 1988 in Winterthur Portfolio, a scholarly journal published by the University of Chicago Press.
Textiles are, for me, a particularly appealing way to learn about people, a moment in time, cultural traditions, and geography.
Textiles are very apltly named “material culture” and since in many cultures the production of textiles is done by women, they are a great vehicle for understanding women’s culture. Quite literally textiles tie different people together, and serve as a thread that connects many different artisans, and the artisans with the consumer, often linking different social and economic groups. Producing the fabric, adding color and ornamentation, and then assembling the finished product, all creates an elaborate network of people that I find very fascinating.
I just spoke to Mary, a traveler who has journeyed in Japan and Paris with me on art tours, and in Japan and Italy on our mountain hiking trips. Mary mentioned Maiwa and their work with textiles in India. I was fascinated. Take a look at the Maiwa blog at
When we were in Cambodia in 2003, we stayed in Siem Reap to visit the amazing temples at Angkor Wat. I was excited to discover Artisans Angkor Their program of teaching villagers from throughout Cambodia traditional crafts such as silk from the beginning (raising the cocoons) to spinning and coloring and weaving and sewing the final product, was exciting. After the training, the villagers return home and have a economically sustainable livelihood. The website states: “Created as the offshoot of an educational project in the 1990’s, Artisans Angkor has now become a Cambodian semi-public social company that aims at providing job opportunities to young rural people near their home village.”
As I look forward to this year’s art tour to Japan in November, I am excited about reconnecting with rural art projects, and look forward to seeing the artisans on Naoshima, Inujima and Teshima, all remote islands in the Inland Sea. An Imabari cotton scarf is a recent textile treasure from Japan that I enjoy wearing, made by the Miyazaki company which was founded in the late 1800’s!

Isamu Noguchi: New York and Japan

Thanks to the wonders of technology, you can sit at your computer or phone or iPad and listen to the artist Isamu Noguchi speak to you about art! Watch this amazing video from the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s website. Noguchi is showing us around his studio in New York and talking about how he works. This is a particularly special experience in 2018 since Noguchi died in 1988. SFMoma Isamu Noguchi film

This film provides incentive for you to visit Noguchi’s studio in New York. It was such a pleasure to visit with the New York art tour for Art Tours by Amy in 2014. Noguchi Museum in New York

In addition, Noguchi states “The whole world is someplace where you belong.” This is so appropriate when you consider that the other major Noguchi museum is on Shikoku in Japan. Visiting Noguchi’s home and garden in Mure on the island of Shikoku is magical and well worth the effort. We visited here on the Japan art tours for Art Tours by Amy in 2016 and 2017. Mure Shikoku Japan Noguchi Museum

Japan: New Reading for Art Tour to Japan and mountain hiking too

Japan is a passion of mine and it provides great pleasure when new books appear about Japan. Here are two of my favorites. Both are great resources to prepare for the November 2018 Japan Heritage art tour, as well as our mountain hiking trips on Shikoku, the Japan Alps, and the Kumano Kodo. Happy reading!

A Year in Japan by Kate T Williamson. New York: Princeton Architectural Press, 2006
A visual diary of the author’s year in Japan that captures so many of my favorite quirks about the country. For example, she writes: “Safe Fruit. Japanese apples tend to be enormous, expensive, and well-protected. I once bought an apple in a department store supermarket (most department stores have supermarkets on the lowest level), and before I could stammer something about not needing a bag, the apple was surrounded by a foam cozy and placed inside a paper bag, which was then sealed with a sticker bearing the department store’s name and handed to me in a plastic shopping bag.”
A Year in Japan Princeton Architectural Press

Japanese Farm Food by Nancy Singleton Hachisu. Kansas City: Andrews McMeel Publishing LLC, 2012.
The Osaki family emigrated to Hawaii from Japan in the late 1800’s. John Osaki, my husband, is a third generation Japanese American. During a century in Hawaii, Japanese American cooking embraced many unusual ingredients, including SPAM and Vienna Sausages. This cookbook returns Japanese food to its “farm to table” roots, and includes simple food that tastes great. Turn to page 259 for chicken grilled with scallions. Three ingredients: boneless chicken thighs, sea salt, scallions. This is so simple and so very tasty. Oishii! Enjoy.
Japanese Farm Food

Camino and the Kumano, Dual Pilgrimages

Hiking and History. The Camino in Spain. The Kumano Kodo in Japan. These are the only two pilgrimages in the world that have been named “World Heritage Sites.” http://dual-pilgrim.spiritual-pilgrimages.com/?page_id=2

If you have done the Camino in Spain, why not try the Kumano Kodo in Japan? You must be fit, and you should enjoy hiking uphill for about three hours at a time, and then downhill for three hours, and enjoy spending at least 6 hours every day hiking. You do? Come to Japan with us October 12-21, 2017.http://www.mountainhikingholidays.com/kumano_kodo_pilgrimage_hike_japan.htm

The Art of Travel

Travel is an art. With experience, one can develop skills that enhance the experience.

If you are interested, here are some of my frequently used resources for crafting an enhanced travel experience:

1. Time and Date

When is sunset, or full moon at my destination?

How many hours time difference is there? When is a good time to call?

All these questions and more can be answered with a look at http://www.timeanddate.com/

2. Flight Stats
When making a connection, how often has your flight number been delayed in the past?
Is the plane coming into my connecting city running on time?
When meeting a flight, is the flight due to arrive on time?
Take a look at http://www.flightstats.com/go/Home/home.do

3. Skype Out
When out of the US and staying somewhere with wifi, one inexpensive
option for making international phone calls is Skype Out.
Sign up for Skype.
Then purchase $10 of Skype credit.
Works great.

4. Train schedules:
In Europe, look at German Rail
http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query2.exe/en?rt=1&

In Japan, look at Jorudan
http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english/

Send me an email with any feedback on these ideas! Happy travels, Amy

New York Frick expansion

Enjoy this about the expansion of the Frick in the Wall Street Journal this week! Thanks Betsy for sharing.

http://www.wsj.com/articles/in-defense-of-the-frick-1418773593

Objects as entrees to other places and times

Re-reading this post, I realize that it serves as the foundation for all the art tours I offer through Art Tours by Amy.

Happy Reading! It would be an honor to travel with you to Paris or Spain in 2015. Amy

Amy’s Winterthur story
BY AMY BOYCE OSAKI, ON JANUARY 18TH, 2013
Why Winterthur? Perhaps you are wondering why I am leading an art tour to Winterthur Museum, Delaware, and the Brandywine River Valley in May? Quite simply this is a spectacular time of year to visit this spot on planet earth. The gardens are in their full glory, and the way that the du Ponts “painted” with plants at Winterthur, Longwood, Nemours, and Hagley is quite spectacular.

Secondly, it was at Winterthur that I had the honor to be immersed in material culture. For two years, I studied at the museum as a Winterthur Fellow. My undergraduate degree, from Sweet Briar College, is in American Studies (History, Literature, and Art History), and I also studied at the Louvre in Paris. It was at Winterthur that my interdisciplinary study, largely based in documents, received a deeper emphasis on objects. James Deetz’s book, In Small Things Forgotten, serves as a foundation for the study of material culture. The important emphasis is on initiating your inquiry of the past through an object, or objects. Archaeology is rooted in the object, and with pre-historic peoples, there are no accompanying historical documents to flesh out your understanding of the object at hand. As Deetz writes, objects “carry messages from their makers and users.” We can “decode those messages and apply them to our understanding of the human experience.”

At Winterthur, I studied furniture, silver, ceramics, textiles, glass, paintings and more. I recall one Sunday morning, before the museum opened, studying a Paul Revere tankard in the DuPont dining room, holding the tankard with white gloves and closely examining it, a powerful entree to the world of 18th century Boston. For my thesis, I read every letter written by Eleuthera du Pont (1806-1876) starting with her earliest, at about the age of 10, until her marriage to Thomas Mackie Smith, and kept an index of all of the objects she mentioned in her letters. I wanted her to tell me what objects were most important to her. She wrote most frequently about her needlework, and that is what I selected for my master’s thesis. With her 4,000 letters, the embroidery patterns, and finished embroidery all preserved at Hagley Museum which also includes her family home, Eleutherian Mills, I was immersed in her early 19th century world for nearly two years. My thesis was published by Winterthur Portfolio (volume 23, number 4, winter 1988) with the University of Chicago Press.

Fast forward several decades, and I now travel the globe, introducing small groups to amazing objects, and helping them to gain insight into the past. Powerful moments include Lascaux cave in France, Tiwanaku on Lake Titicaca in Bolivia, Koyasan in Japan, and the Duomo in Florence. An object, such a Brunnelleschi’s dome on the Duomo, serves as an entree to a moment in time, in this case Renaissance Italy. Thus my graduate work at Winterthur infuses my current career as a travel professional, and provides the intellectual framework for the tours offered here as Art Tours by Amy.

Paris, New York, Boston: recommended reading

Here is a great book! With chapters on Louisine Havemeyer, JP Morgan, and Isabella Stewart Gardner, and more, this books provides a rich background for understanding the art of collecting in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Full of detail, drama, gossip, and real research, this book is a lively look into the private world of the super rich and the race to acquire masterpieces by Rembrandt, Vermeer and more! Enjoy!

Old Masters, New World: America’s Raid on Europe’s Great Pictures by Cynthia Saltzman

http://www.amazon.com/Old-Masters-New-World-Americas/dp/0143115316

reviews:

Chicago Tribune http://www.chicagotribune.com/lifestyles/books/chi-cynthia-saltzman-16aug16-story.html#page=1

Wall Street Journal http://online.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748704875604575280781089152248

Harvard Magazine http://harvardmagazine.com/2008/11/art-as-chattel.html

 

Japan Shikoku on TV Tuesday December 16, 2014

The architecture and traditions of Japanese Buddhism figure prominently in our mountain hiking trip to Japan. In April 2013, a film crew from WGBH Boston accompanied our group. The resulting six-part
series, Sacred Journeys, airs nationwide beginning on Tuesday December 16, 2014. The Shikoku episode is scheduled for 9pm and appears on the Oregon Public Broadcasting schedule! Enjoy! http://www.opb.org/schedules/tvhd/2014-12-16/